Holkham Linseed Paints need to be applied in accordance with these instructions to give you the maximum benefits from the paints longevity. To obtain maximum longevity it should be applied to bare wood allowing the linseed oil to penetrate, nourish and protect the timber.

Should you have any queries about these instructions or the use of our products further advice can be obtained by viewing our website, www.holkhamlinseedpaints.co.uk, which includes sections such as “Frequently Asked Questions” and product pages. Alternatively contact 01328 711348 Monday to Friday, excluding Bank Holidays, between the hours of 9 am and 5 pm. Visitors by appointment only please.

1. Striping Existing Paints. If you are painting new bare timber joinery please advance to step 2. Strip back existing coats of paint using a heat gun and scraper. To aid in this process you may apply a coat of hota (70ºF) Holkham Raw Linseed Oil, this will penetrate through fine cracks in the paintwork and help to ease it from the surface. Once the timbers are clean of paint proceed to the next stage. Linseed Oil does not boil until 300ºF: it should not be heated to this extreme. See overleaf for advice on using paint strippers and painting over existing coats of paint.

2. Priming/Impregnating Now apply a coat of warmeda (60ºF) raw linseed oil; heat ita using a saucepan on the stove or by pouring it into a metal paint kettle and using a gas burner or fire to warm the container. The heat lowers the viscosity of the oil and allows it to penetrate more easily. Apply the warmed oil to the timbers and allow to dry for approximately 24 hours. Alternatively you can apply the raw linseed oil cold and then run a heat gun over it to warm it. A second coat may be applied depending on the age of and the dryness of the timbers. Some tropical hardwoods only require a very light coat of warmed raw linseed oil (see b overleaf). When painting metalwork substitute this with a coat of Holkham Linseed Iron Primer.

3. Knotting and Glazing Use Shellac Knotting Solution on any knots in the timber. If you are glazing you will now need to coat the rebates and the backs of any glazing beads with the Shellac too. This will prevent the window putty drying out too quickly and degrading OR give the silicone seals/tapes a surface to adhere to and prevent the Linseed Oil from coming into contact with the double glazing units. Once this is dry (approx. 30 mins) you can then install your glazing and continue to stage 4. For laminated glass see footnote d overleaf.

4. First Coat Apply the first coat of Holkham Linseed Paintc. It is important to ensure that the paint is mixed thoroughly to avoid drying problems. This needs to be worked onto the timber very thinly and thoroughly in all directions, our Traditional Scandinavian Spoon Brushes are designed for use with linseed oil paints and will help you to achieve the best finish. Brushes should be stored with their bristles suspended in Holkham Raw Linseed Oil or washed with Holkham Linseed Oil Soap and warm water between coats, excess oil should be squeezed from the brush before you proceed with painting. With some of our lighter colours you should still be able to see the timber through this initial coat. In optimum conditions, 24ºC continuously, it should dry within 24 hours, it is best to leave it for at least 48 hours. Applied too thickly it can take weeks to dry as the paint will form a skin and remain wet underneath.

5. Fillers Once this initial coat of paint is dry any imperfections in the timber should be filled. We recommend that you use Holkham Linseed Putty for any larger holes or imperfections. Any holes to be filled with Putty should be coated with Shellac Knotting Solution to stop the linseed oil in the putty from being absorbed too quickly by the timber and drying out. Smaller holes and imperfections can be filled with Holkham Luslack. This two part filler can be mixed to either a milk-like consistency and used to fill fine cracks and grains or to a stiffer more putty like texture to fill small holes and hollows. Please paint over the luslack once it is dry – approx ½ to 1 hour. We do not recommend the use of plastic based wood fillers as they can affect the drying and appearance of the paint.

6. Second Coat Once any required filling has been completed and is dry give the surface a light rub down with fine grain sandpaper and apply the second coat of Linseed Paint in the same way as the first - very thinly and by working it in all directions. Again allow plenty of drying time and then give it another very light rubdown.

7. Final Coat Apply the third coat taking your brush strokes along the grain of the timber again thinly. With most timbers/colours this third coat will be sufficient however it is occasionally necessary to apply a fourth coat. If this is the case then you will need to lightly rub down once dry and apply this final coat as you did the third allowing your brush strokes to follow the grain. Some of our darker colours require a finishing coat of Linseed Oil Wax due to natural differences within the substrate.

Please see Footnotes and Hints and Tips overleaf.

FUTURE MAINTENANCE.

Apart from an occasional wash down with mild soapy water, the next maintenance that your paintwork should need is a coat of warmed Raw Linseed Oil or Holkham Linseed Maintenance Oil in 6 to 7 years time or when the paintwork starts to look chalky. Approximately 15 Years from the initial process it will require a single coat of Linseed Oil Paint to keep it in top condition. Thereafter, every seven years, alternate between a coat of warmed Maintenance Oil or Raw Linseed Oil and a coat of Holkham Linseed Paint.

FOOTNOTES

a.             Please ensure you are wearing adequate protective clothing i.e. heatproof gloves and long sleeves. If you intend to use the saucepan for cooking please ensure that it is thoroughly washed out as linseed oil is not harmful to humans but can have a laxative effect if consumed in quantity.
b.             Iroko, Utile, Sapele, Idigbo amongst others, if you are unsure test an off-cut first. If any oil is sitting on the surface after 30 minutes tissue off (dispose of cloths carefully see warning below) and allow to dry thoroughly: a minimum of 24 hours.
c.             When painting windows there is no need to cut in round the glazing. Paint out onto the glass and once you have completed all coats of paint cut away with a blade using a steel ruler as a guide.
d.             Laminated glass can be affected by the linseed oil in Putty, please seek further advice from your glass supplier before proceeding. The edges can be sealed with silicon to prevent the oil from appearing between the panes.

HINTS AND TIPS.

Paint: We suggest that you base your calculations on the coverage rate of 20 sq m per litre; the paint will cover less on the first coat but progressively more with each successive coat. We are sorry but we are not able to calculate paint quantities for customers.

It is not recommended that our paint be applied outside during the winter unless the project can be given shelter and heat or shelter and at least a week between coats of paint.

If dust or flies land on the paint whilst wet a light rub down, when dry, with very fine sandpaper will remove them.

Oil: We would recommend the use of our own Raw Linseed Oil as this has been refined to remove the impurities that could cause mould and fungal growth. As a general rule the paler the colour of raw linseed oil the purer the quality, the oil should be pale golden in colour.

Paint Strippers: We do not recommend the use of “paint strippers” (chemical or eco-friendly) as they are absorbed by the timbers and can, if neutralised incorrectly or insufficiently, cause our paint to bubble up and/or come off. We would strongly suggest that if you choose to use this method of paint removal that you seek advice from the manufacturers, technical advice line on neutralising, and ourselves before proceeding.

Paint Stripping: It is advisable to strip existing coats of paint to ensure the maximum longevity of our paints. This also ensures that the timbers receive the full benefit from the linseed oil, which nourishes and protects them. Should you choose to paint over existing coats of paint please be aware that the initial coat of warmed raw linseed oil will not be necessary and the paint coats will take longer to dry as there is no absorption. Also surfaces that have been partially stripped can result in a patchy final finish. This can reduce the longevity of the paint.

Brushes: Our traditional spoon brushes have four concentric metal bands round them to increase their longevity. As the bristles wear down please remove the pins from either side of the band nearest the bristles (furthest from the handle) and carefully peel the band away, this may occasionally require scoring with a sharp blade. Once you have removed the metal band you will then need to remove one of the central segments of cork, this can be done by inserting a corkscrew into the centre of the brush giving it one turn and then tugging; the cork is pre-cut and should come away easily.

WARNING: Rags soaked in linseed oil can spontaneously combust. Please soak in water before disposing of outside of the home, or burn

Click colour spots for information

White

Old White
Barley White

Buttermilk*

Parchment

Sea Mist

Lichen

Wild Sage
Spruce Green
Holkham Green
Custard

Antique Gold

Ice Blue*
Linseed Blue
Midnight Blue

Iron Primer *
Brick Red

Chocolate

Houghton Brown*
Black